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Why are BlueCast resins more expensive compared to competitors?


BlueCast resins have a higher price due to our commitment to using only advanced polymers sourced from European, American, and Korean suppliers. Our resins are free from toxic and carcinogenic components, and we continually strive to minimize the presence of irritant chemicals. To ensure consistent performance over time and eliminate variations between production batches, we thoroughly test all raw materials before utilizing them.

Can I use BlueCast resins for jewelry production or are they only for prototypes?


Our mission is to develop castable resins that can rival wax in terms of accuracy and burnout. At BlueCast, we have a dedicated Jewelry Manufacturing Department that enables us to gain a deep understanding of the needs of goldsmiths and rigorously test the performance of our products. With our new X-One and X-Filigree V2 resins, which utilize proprietary polymers, we can print in the morning and cast in the evening. These resins are compatible with standard wax burnout (12 hrs.), fast burnout (6 hrs.), and ultra-fast burnout (2 hrs.).

Is digitizing jewelry production expensive?


No, it is not. Currently, LCD printing technology is revolutionary, offering affordability, user-friendliness, and excellent printing quality. There are several machines available for less than 1000 USD that are well-suited for jewelry applications. When considering resin costs, our most expensive castable resin is between 0.1 to 0.25 USD for a standard ring and 0.4 to 0.6 USD for a celebration ring.

Can I use BlueCast resins and wax models in the same flask?


All our "X-Resins" have been developed to perform similarly to wax. X-One and other specific resins are the first castable resins that melt like wax with any investment, burnout, and oven.

Do BlueCast resins require special investments?


No, they do not require phosphatic or special investments. We strongly suggest to follow the mixing time and instructions provided by the manufacturers. For solid and heavy designs such as chevaliers and celebration rings, we recommend allowing the flask to rest for 4 hours before casting.

Is there a risk of shortage with any chemical material used?


No, we maintain a stock based on a 2-year forecast, and we are the only castable resin manufacturer with two production plants (Italy and Emirates) and a branch office in the US.

Why do you offer different kinds of castable resins?


We understand the jewelry market well and always strive to provide the best possible solutions according to our customers' requirements. Some of our newest products are suitable for printing and casting the most common designs. Additionally, different types of resins are necessary due to the various light sources used in 3D printing technologies.

Why are BlueCast resins the most used for jewelry production?


BlueCast resins are the preferred choice because they are incredibly easy to print, eliminating the need for lengthy post-processing or wasting time after printing. They are compatible with all burnout processes and do not require any special investments to achieve perfect casting results.

How can BlueCast Castable resin help my business?


Our resins offer casting quality comparable to wax, significantly reduce production time, and help save energy costs by being compatible with ultra-fast burnout (2 hrs.). The surface quality is exceptionally smooth, and the casting process is free of ash residuals, eliminating the need for extra finishing time.

What is the recommended burnout process for your resins?


Although our castable resins are compatible with all burnouts, our preferred method is as follows:



0-150°C: Ramp up temperature

150°C - 3 hrs: Hold at 150°C for 3 hours

150°C – 680°C: Ramp up temperature

680°C - 3 hrs: Hold at 680°C for 3 hours

Down to casting temperature

Ramp 8 degrees/min


Fahrenheit (°F)


300°F - 3 hrs

300°F – 1256°F

1250°F - 3 hrs

Ramps 47 degrees Fahrenheit /min

Do you offer after-sales service?


Absolutely. Our team is available to assist you both before and after your purchase. Please contact us at XXXXXXXXX for any inquiries or support.

Which countries do you ship to?


We ship our products worldwide, but we strongly recommend contacting one of our Official Resellers. They will be pleased to help you select the right products, provide the necessary information, and ensure prompt resin delivery within 24 hours.



Which resins are compatible with my 3D printer?


Please refer to DOWNLOAD AREA and check the Chitubox profile folder  for a list of compatible resins with your printer. If your printer is not listed or if the specific resin you need is not available for your device, kindly contact us at XXXXXXXXX. Our team will be delighted to assist you and provide the appropriate printing profile if possible.

Under what conditions should I store my resin?


It is important to store your resin at room temperature, ideally between 18°C and 35°C. Keep it away from direct sunlight or any strong light source, and avoid placing it near air conditioning units.

Why is it crucial to preheat the resin before printing?


Our resins contain a significant amount of waxy polymers, which can increase their viscosity. Preheating the resin helps dissolve these waxy polymers, reducing viscosity, minimizing peeling forces, and ultimately improving printing quality. Generally, the optimal operating range for preheating is between 20°C and 30°C.

Why do I need to shake the resin before printing?


Shaking the resin thoroughly ensures that all the different components are well-mixed. This enhances reactivity, particularly when the resin has been unused for an extended period.

When preparing the 3D model, should I print the sprues as well?


Whether to include the sprues in the print depends on the model's geometry. If the design allows it, printing the sprues along with the model can save time during tree assembly. Our X Resins perform similarly to wax, making this practice beneficial.

During printing, why should I use a base? Or why not?


Using a base during printing helps establish a strong adhesion between the model and the build platform. However, our latest formulations have been developed to ensure perfect adhesion even with smaller bases, reducing the need for additional support structures.

What is the density of the resins?


The density of BlueCast resins before printing is 1.09.


I have sticking platform issue. What do I have to do?


Before running the Z-Axis calibration, ensure that your build platform is planar by checking it with a calibrated bar. If it is not flat, you can fix this issue by using 150/200 grade sandpaper to sand the build platform.

Perform the Z-Axis calibration according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. This calibration will help ensure the proper alignment and functioning of the printer's components.

Check the condition of your FEP (Flexible Elastic Polymer) sheet. It is strongly recommended to use high-quality FEP options such as HD FEP, FEP 2.0, or PFA. Using a poor-quality FEP can compromise the printability of the resin and lead to issues with platform adhesion and peeling force.

Verify the stability of your support structures and ensure that your models are fixed and correct. Make sure there are no broken parts in the model that could affect the printing process.

Once you have confirmed the model's integrity, check the layers of the sliced file to ensure they are accurately prepared for printing.

By following these steps, you can troubleshoot and address the sticking platform issue more effectively.

How can I increase platform model adhesion?


To enhance platform model adhesion, you can try the following methods: increase the exposure time for the bottom layer, sand the build platform using 150/200 grade sandpaper, and pre-heat the resin before printing.

How can I fix my STL file before slicing?


Currently, there are several free resources available for this purpose. One of the most effective options is 3D Builder, a free Windows app. Another option is Autodesk MeshMixer. Additionally, there are paid software solutions like Magics.

What may be the reason for layer separation in my prints?


Layer separation is often caused by incorrect layer exposure. Over-curing makes it difficult for layers to adhere to each other, while under-curing affects layer building. First, check if you are using the correct printing profile. If you are, consider adjusting the exposure settings based on the specific issue you are facing. If the issue persists, inspect and replace your FEP sheet. Incorrect peeling can also contribute to this problem.

What can I do if my prints are brittle?


Excessive curing is the primary reason for prints being brittle. Resin that is over-cured during or after printing becomes more prone to brittleness. To address this, try changing the profile settings and reducing the UV post-curing time, especially if you have brittle print.

What can I do if my prints are soft and fragile?


Our Castable Resins, particularly X-One, contain a high percentage of waxy polymer. While these resins may appear soft, you can post-cure the patterns to make them more rigid. We strongly recommend UV post-curing for Cr3a and X-Filigree resins.

How can I fix wavy prints?


Always check your FEP sheet first. If that doesn't resolve the issue, consider greasing the Z-Axis. If the problem persists, it is advisable to contact the 3D printer manufacturer for further assistance.

How can I avoid the layering effect?


While BlueCast resins have smooth surfaces, if you encounter a layering effect, we suggest reducing the layer exposure by 10% and switching to PFA FEP. The peeling force could be a contributing factor.

Why do my prints have cracks?


If cracks appear immediately after printing, it is likely due to incorrectly placed supports. This can occur when the pattern moves freely during the lifting process. If cracks appear after washing, it might be caused by the type of alcohol used. Try reducing the washing time to minimize this issue.

Why do my prints have holes?


Holes can occur if the DLP engine has burned pixels or if the LCD screen has black areas that prevent proper light projection. Additionally, dirty glass windows or LCD screens, or a damaged FEP sheet, can also lead to holes in prints.

When should I filter my resin?


Filtering the resin is especially necessary after experiencing broken prints. If any models are broken or not properly attached to the platform (fallen parts), there may be unwanted debris inside the resin tray. Filtering the resin is recommended. If you are not using the resin overnight, it is safer to filter it and return it to the bottle.

Why is nothing printing?


The most likely reasons for nothing printing is a corrupt slicing file or a malfunctioning machine. If you suspect parameter mistakes or encounter issues with Z-Calibration, check for patterns in the resin tank. If no patterns are found, we suggest testing the machine and contacting the manufacturer for further assistance.